Video

Disclaimer: I have not performed any of these mods and cannot guarantee that they are 100% accurate. I do not take any liability if you damage your console. These mods are designed for a Super NES, but I assume that they are compatible with the N64 and GCN because they use the same A/V plug.

Here is an example of what pin is what on your system. Click on the photo to get the pin numbers, which you will need for following steps. (sorry I didn't get a picture of the Gamecube, but I don't have one. If you can't figure that out on your own though, I would suggest learning a bit more about electronics and stuff anyway.)

Ground:

Composite Video, Audio:

Luma, Chroma

RGB

+5 volts output

BACKLIGHTING MOD By NiN^_^NiN LED Alternative From stereth After the post on the board and a few emails requesting this ;) u know who you are I have decided to quickly make this Page. The LCD being used in this Example is a Mad Katz/Redant 5" R.G.B PS1 Screen. To use this on other LCDs is simple, they basically are the same steps. Please Note: You should Protect yourself, I don't take any responsibility if you hurt yourself its up to you to you.

Open your LCD screen and flip it around so you can see the back. Now you must find the Transformer and disconnect it. The transformer is a small yellow block (The transformer is at the top center of this LCD just above the white cable)

With this LCD we are lucky to be able to just unplug the voltage going to the transformer. The top right has a small white block this is the plug to supply voltage so the transformer can convert that into 30v or more to power the lighting tube. Now if you can't unplug the transformer you will have to desolder it to desolder it you should unplug the power supply then leave the ON switch turned on for a few mins just to make sure the voltage has gone. Now desolder the transformer and put it aside. Please Note: Protecting yourself is a good idea I don't take any responsibility if you hurt yourself and trust me if u touch the 30v its hurts.

Now you can see a white plug on the top left this is the plug that gets 30v out of the transformer and that plug connects to the Light Tube disconnect this from the board or desolder the wires.

Now you need to unplug and unscrew anything you forgot (The white cable in the middle has been unplugged)

Now we have taken the LCD module out of the casing and disconnected it from all the boards it was connected to. As you can see there is a plastic backing that is holding the reflecting material so no light goes out the back you must take this off.

Now we have taken then the plastic backing off and you can see we have the reflecting material we must take this off.

Now you might see a tube that either is hiding in the edge of the LCD or you might get a weird U shaped backlighting this is ok we just have to remove this.

This is the Light that was taken out you can toss it or keep it just incase you don't like the new backlighting.

Now to replace the light we need a new Light source so we need 2 White Bright LED to light the LCD up. First Wire the LED together by wires so you can easily move them about. To put them in this LCD you should put 1 at the bottom in the gap where the old light was and 1 in the side in the same gap. In other LCD you can either mount them where the old light source was or have them poking in from each side in the middle so they light the LCD up evenly. Now we must connect this to the plug that went into the transformer board or the positive pin where the transformer was before you desoldered it. So we connect positive wire to a 22 ohm resistor then connect the resistor to the LED then connect the negative to the other end of the LED Now make sure the wiring is all ok connect the LCD up and hopefully it will all work. Now put that reflective material back and the plastic backing (if it had it) and then screw it back into the frame and now you should have a LCD that runs at about half the power it use to :) posted by stereth: If they're 5mm LEDs (T-1_3/4), return them. Get 3mm (T-1) ones from Digikey or Mouser. 5mm ones won't fit at all in the Sony screen. Trust me. Ben says to hook them up in parallel, doomportables says in series. I say parallel; that way you're sure they have enough voltage. Remember, there's a nominal 3.6V drop (or whatever; it's a spec on the LED you choose) across each. Put a resistor in series with the (parallel) LEDs. Use the equation R = (Vs - Vf)/I, where R is the resistor value, Vs is supply voltage, Vf is forward voltage (LED spec), and I is the desired current. Try a couple different values for the resistor, up to the max current for the LEDs. Remember, the current from that equation is total current for the 3 LEDs. Use the 7.2V supply, not the cathode power supply.

Long ago I did a LED backlight mod to my screen and I know quite a few of you have adapted it. While it DOES work and lowers the power usage by a lot, it's not very bright.

WELL, NOW THAT HAS CHANGED!

Strictly by accident, while holding the PCB of the screen, I noticed by putting your fingers on certain places it changed the image. The horizontal position, the colors. If I licked my finger and touch the middle of the board, the whole image got way brighter (as you can see, I'm incredibly scientific) I narrowed it down to ONE surface-mount component. I placed the JPG on my website, use this link to find it: [acually, it's right here. -abbibi]

This is the middle of the back of the PCB, and the top of the photo is "UP". Short out that little resistor, capacitor, whatever it is (I have not clue!) with a bit of wire (so it basically "isn't there") and you will see a SHOCKING increase in brightness. The contrast goes down a bit (the blacks are less black, the edges of whites are less sharp) but it's SO much brighter I'm pretty sure you won't care. The brightness control actually seems to DO something now (instead of having to be all the way up, you can now center it). I use a 22 ohm resistor hooked to the 7.2 volts in on the screen, that resistor then goes to (3) 3mm white LED's (Digi-key part CMD204UWC-ND) wired in parallel placed in the lower-left, lower-right and upper-right corners of the screen. It draws 310mA at 7.2v.

Ok, well I'm sure any of you with a modded PSOne Screen will have fun with this. Remember, I am still around and trying to get projects finished so I can get back into portables more! And look for me in full color 30 frames-per-second action Febuary 20th at 4:00 Pacific time on the Screen Savers show on Tech TV! Later!